Saturday 23 March 2013

The reighn of the Corset

The Corset:

A corset is a garment worn to hold and shape the torso into a desired shape for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing this item, or with a more lasting effect). Both men and women are known to wear corsets, though women are more common wearers.
In recent years, the term "corset" has also been borrowed by the fashion industry to refer to tops which, to varying degrees, mimic the look of traditional corsets without actually acting as one. While these modern corsets and corset tops often feature lacing or boning and generally mimic a historical style of corsets, they have very little if any effect on the shape of the wearer's body. Genuine corsets are usually made by a corsetmaker and should be fitted to the individual wearer.

Uses:
There are 3 main uses for the Corset.

1)Fashion:
This is the most common use for a corset, it grant the person earing it to havthe ideal figure and curves in the right places.


2)Medical:
People with spinal problems such as scoliosis or with internal injuries may be fitted with a form of corset in order to immobilize and protect the torso


3)Fetish:
aside from fashion and medical reasons corsets are also worn as a sexual fetishism


History:
The corset has been erroneously attributed to Catherine de' Medici, wife of King Henry II of France. She enforced a ban on thick waists at court attendance during the 1550s. For nearly 350 years, women's primary means of support was the corset, with laces and stays made of whalebone r metal. Other researchers have found evidence of the use of corsets in early Crete.
The corset has undergone many changes. The corset was originally known as stays in the early 16th century. It was a simple bodice with tabs at the waist, stiffened by horn, buckram, and whalebone.The center front was further reinforced by a busk made of ivory, wood, or metal. It was most often laced from the back, and was, at first, a garment reserved for the aristocracy.
Stays took a different form in the 18th century, whalebone began to be used more, and there was more boning used in the garment. The shape of the stays changed as well. The stays were low and wide in the front, while in the back they could reach as high as the upper shoulder. Stays could be strapless or use shoulder straps. The straps of the stays were attached in the back and tied at the front sides.
The purpose of 18th century stays was to support the bust, confer the fashionable conical shape while drawing the shoulders back. At this time, the eyelets were reinforced with stitches, and were not placed across from one another, but staggered. This allowed the stays to be spiral laced. One end of the stay lace is inserted and knotted in the bottom eyelet, the other end is wound through the stays' eyelets and tightened on the top. Tight-lacing was not common in this time period, and indulged in only by the very fashionable. Stays were worn by women in all societal levels, from ladies of the court to street vendors.
At this time, there were two other variants of stays, jumps, which were looser stays with attached sleeves, like a jacket, and corsets.
Corsets were originally quilted waistcoats, worn by French women as an alternative to stiff corsets They were only quilted linen, laced in the front, and un-boned. This garment was meant to be worn on informal occasions, while stays were worn for court dress. In the 1790s, stays fell out of fashion. This development coincided with the French Revolution, and the adoption of neoclassical styles of dress. Interestingly, it was the men, Dandies, who began to wear corsets.The fashion persisted thorough the 1840s, though after 1850 men who wore corsets claimed they needed them for "back pain".
Stays went away in the late 18th century, but the corset remained. Corsets in the early 19th century lengthened to the hip, the lower tabs replaced by gussets at the hip. Room was made for the bust in front with more gussets, and the back lowered. The shoulder straps disappeared in the 1840s for normal wear.
In the 1820s, fashion changed again, with the waistline lowered back to almost the natural position. Corsets began to be made with some padding and boning. Corsets began to be worn by all classes of society. Some women made their own, while others bought their corsets. Corsets were one of the first mass produced garments for women. Corsets began to be more heavily boned in the 1840s. By 1850, steel boning became popular.
With the advent of metal eyelets, tight lacing became possible. The position of the eyelets changed, they were now situated across from one another at the back. The front was now fastened with a metal busk in front. Corsets were mostly white. The corsets of the 1850s–1860s were shorter than the corsets of the 19th century through 1840s. This was because of a change in the silhouette of women's fashion. The 1850s and 60s emphasized the hoopskirt. After the 1860s, when the hoop fell out of style, the corset became longer to mold the abdomen, exposed by the new lines of the princess or cuirass style.
During the Edwardian period, the straight front corset (also known as the S-Curve corset) was introduced. This corset was straight in front, with a pronounced curve at the back that forced the upper body forward, and the derrière out. This style was worn from 1900 to 1908
The corset reached its longest length in the early 20th century. The longline corset at first reached from the bust down to the upper thigh. There was also a style of longline corset that started under the bust, and necessitated the wearing of a brassiere. This style was meant to complement the new silhouette. It was a boneless style, much closer to a modern girdle than the traditional corset. The longline style was abandoned during World War I.
The corset fell from fashion in the 1920s in Europe and North America, replaced by girdles and elastic brassieres, but survived as an article of costume. Originally an item of lingerie, the corset has become a popular item of outerwear in the fetish, BDSM and goth subcultures. In the fetish and BDSM literature, there is often much emphasis on tightlacing, and many corset makers cater to the fetish market.
Outside the fetish community, living history re-enactors and historic costume enthusiasts still wear corsets according to their original purpose, to give the proper shape to the figure when wearing historic fashions. In this case, the corset is underwear rather than outerwear. Skilled corset makers are available to make reproductions of historic corset shapes, or to design new styles.
There was a brief revival of the corset in the late 1940s and early 1950s, in the form of the waist cincher sometimes called a "waspie". This was used to give the hourglass figure dictated by Christian Dior's "New Look". However, use of the waist cincher was restricted to haute couture, and most women continued to use girdles. This revival was brief, as the New Look gave way to a less dramatically-shaped silhouette.
Since the late 1980s, the corset has experienced periodic revivals, which have usually originated in haute couture and which have occasionally trickled through to mainstream fashion. These revivals focus on the corset as an item of outerwear rather than underwear. The strongest of these revivals was seen in the Autumn 2001 fashion collections and coincided with the release of the film Moulin Rouge!, the costumes for which featured many corsets as characteristic of the era. Another fashion movement which has renewed interest in the corset is the Steampunk culture, which utilizes late-Victorian fashion shapes in new ways.
Corset Dress:
More commonly known as the hobble corset because it restricts the wearer the sam way the hobble skirt does. someone wearing a hobble corset or dress will have great difficulty climbing up and down stairs.
Corset Comfort:

In the past, a woman's corset was usually worn over a chemise, a sleeveless low-necked gown made of washable material (usually cotton or linen). It absorbed perspiration and kept the corset and the gown clean. In modern times, an undershirt or corset liner may be worn.
Moderate lacing is not incompatible with vigorous activity. Indeed, during the second half of the 19th century, when corset wearing was common, there were sport corsets specifically designed to wear while bicycling, playing tennis, or horseback riding, as well as for maternity wear.

Clothing Fashion

when looking at the way fashion came about we see that alot of the styles and designs today were influenced by clothing civilizations before us wore.


western fashion:

1090
fabrics- wool was used to give a lining fro warmth aswell as a fashion tool
mens fashion- underclothes consisted of an inner tunic (french chainse) or shirt with long, tight sleeves, and drawers or braies, usually of linen. Tailored cloth leggings called chausses or hose, made as separate garments for each leg, were often worn with the tunic; striped hose were popular.
headgear- men of the upper classes often went hatless. the chaperon in the form of hood and attached shoulder-length cape was worn during this period, especially by the rural lower classes, and the fitted linen coif tied under the chin appeared very late in the century. Small round or slightly conical caps with rolled brims were worn, and straw hats were worn for outdoor work in summer.
1300
men's fashion- men wore a tunic, cote or cotte with a surcoat over a linen shirt.
women's fashion-  a floor length, loosely-fitted gown, with long, tight sleeves and a narrow belt was uniform. Over this was worn the cyclas or sleeveless surcoat. richer women wore more embroidery, and the mantle, held in place by a cord across the chest, might be lined with fur. Women also wore hose and leather shoes, like men.
1400
men's fashion- the innermost layer of clothing were the braies or breeches, a loose undergarment, usually made of linen, which was held up by a belt.Next came the shirt, which was generally also made of linen, and which was considered an undergarment, like the breeches. hose or chausses made out of wool were used to cover the legs, and were generally brightly colored, and often had leather soles, so that they did not have to be worn with shoes. The shorter clothes of the second half of the century required these to be a single garment like modern tights, whereas otherwise they were two separate pieces covering the full length of each leg. Hose were generally tied to the breech belt, or to the breeches themselves, or to a doublet. An overgown, tunic, or kirtle was usually worn over the shirt or doublet.
women's fashion- The innermost layer of a woman's clothing was a linen or woolen chemise or smock, some fitting the figure and some loosely garmented, although there is some mention of a "breast girdle" or "breast band" which may have been the precursor of a modern bra.
Women also wore hose or stockings, although women's hose generally only reached to the knee
1550
wstern eopean clothing was characterized by increased opulence. cntrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation remained prominent. te wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders had reach its peak in the 1530s, and by mid-century a tall, narrow line with a V-shaped waist was back in fashion. seeves and women's skirts then began to widen again, with emphasis at the shoulder that would continue into the next century. te characteristic garment of the period was the ruff, which began as a modest ruffle attached to the neckband of a shirt or smock and grew into a separate garment of fine linen, trimmed with lace, cutwork or embroidery, and shaped into crisp, precise folds with starch and heated irons.
1660
women's fashion- The wide, high-waisted look of the previous period was gradually superseded by a long vertical line, with horizontal emphasis at the shoulder. Full, loose sleeves ended just below the elbow at mid century and became longer and tighter in keeping with the new trend. The body was tightly corseted, with a low, broad neckline and dropped shoulder. In later decades, the overskirt was drawn back and pinned up to display the petticoat, which was heavily decorated
men's fashion-military boots gave way to shoes, and a mania for baggy breeches, short coats, and hundreds of yards of ribbon set the style.
1820
men's fashion- shirts and cravats made of linen and cotton. waistcoats and coats were always worn and has shawl like collars to frame the face. full length coloured trousers were what men wore beneath their coats and always carried a top hat along.
women's fashion-long floor length dresses were the craze at the time. having a thine belt just beneath the breasts. outgoing clothes always included a shawl or scarf adn were accompanied by flat pumps.
1870
women's fashion- during this time fullness of the skirt moved to the back of the floor length gowns. a tist bust area was how dresses were designed.
men's fashion- men wore shirts and coats with trousers and accesorised with neck ties adn bow ties.top remained a requirement for the upperclass men during this time and bowler hats for regular men. 
1900
women's fashion-with the decline of bustle,sleeves increased in size and the silhoutte of the houre glass figure was brought back into fashion. the corset reduced preassure on the abdomin and created an S-shaped figure. blouses and dresses were full in the front and puffed into the "pigion breast". sportswear and tailored wear became increasingly popular for women. this period also brought about the rise of haute cature, whish is designer clotheing which is completely hand made and one of a kind. hats were a nassacity and were broadbrimmed during the mid century.
men's fashion- men still wore shirt, trousers, coats and neckties, the top hat was still in fashion for upperclassmen but hats also included soft felt homburgs and stiff bowler hats. shoes included over the ankle boots with a very distinct black tip.
1940
during this period fashion made a major comeback after its decline, fashion houses in paris had grand reopenings and thus plumeting fashion sales through the roof.
women's fashion- dresses were not floor length anymore due to christian dior launching a new line of fashion which was reguard as the "new look". women wore mid calf dresses which had a full skirt, pointy bust adn small waist with a rounded shoulder. women oftern included a bolero over dresses which were low cut and revealing. hair was worn short and a hat accompanied outfits for casual outings during this time we can see the first line of merternity wear. 
men's fashion- men wore suits which were often broad shouldered and double breasted.trouses became more full and were accompanied with cuffs. men wore their hair as the wet look and often grew their hair out.
2010
From 2010 onwards, colors such as teal, cobalt blue, pink and neon yellow have been popular for t-shirts and jackets, along with skinny jeans. Madras shirts with tartan prints and bright colored casual clothing are popular for both men and women in the West. Western shirts, popularised by the Dallas TV series and indie pop groups like Kings of Leon, remain fashionable, especially in the UK and southern US, but are generally made in more subdued colors than those of the mid-2000s: browns, greys, blues, and distressed stonewash denim with conventional buttons rather than the popular press studs as designers moved towards a more authentic Old West or American pioneer look.
Vintage clothing remained popular, although it was becoming increasingly common to cut unused stock of older fabric to modern patterns or remake older garments into reconstructed clothing for example, by sewing white cotton tape around the lapels of a navy blue 1990s blazer, or go to extremes and make a shirt from deliberately mismatched scraps of fabric.
troughout the decade, both men and women from wealthy backgrounds continue wearing expensive designer clothings. Brands popular in Europe and the US include Wet Seal, American Eagle, H and M, John Varvatos, Longchamp, and Marc Anthony Collection.

it can be seen here once again that fashion has not changed all that much, new trends have come in and become popular but those main trends have come back time and time again.

 
 
 

fashion today

fashion today is like a religion. people worship fashion houses and designers. everything around us is influenced by art, design and fashion. so welcome to the new age, the new era, the time where fashion dominates.

if you are not in tune with the latest fashion tips, ideas and trends than you are considered uncool and inferior to those who are. this can be seen in alot of teenagers who are bullied and interigated because they cannot afford to keep up or simply couldn't care.

alot of famous travellers and explorers after discovering new and amazing taxtiles and materials from their travels introduced it into their respective countries and as a result sparked new ideas in the minds od fashion designers at that time, thus resulting in the birth of fashion. from ithan fashion has just become a bigger and bigger worldwide market and a very expensive one at that. all design is influenced by the trending fashion at the time. designing a space that is not keeping with fashion trends is reguarded as a boring and unimaginative space. the same applies to graphic design.



fashion is seen everywhere. it is fashion that can sell anything weather it is a girl wearing a dolce and agbana dress posing on the front of the new mercedes SLK 350, to a man who is reguarded by women as ideal wearing calvin klien underwear. and as a result it is fashion that sparks design and art.

it is fashion that sells magazines, clothing and most of all it is what sells "style".

Thursday 7 March 2013

INTRODUCING FASHIONISTA...

Welcome to Fshionista... A blog based on everything about fashion... From the drawing board to the run way... STAY TUNED for all more exciting posts and pictures...